Idaho

Idaho is a state that I have had somewhat of a romantic notion about for some time. I have seen beautiful images of its landscape and it struck me as a place with abundant natural  beauty and wide open spaces. We stayed at Miracle Hot Springs, which as the name implies, has numerous man-made pools with different temperatures of mineral rich, hot spring water. They also have a private campground, as well as furnished dome tents that you can stay in. We tent camped here for 2 nights. The facilities were clean and nice. It was luxurious for us to be able to shower and soak in the pools. It is located in the Thousand Springs Area along the Snake River. We visited Shoshone Falls, which is known as “The Niagara of the West”.  During the spring, snowmelt from the Tetons flows into the Snake River and creates quite the spectacle here. During the fall, the falls themselves are nothing spectacular, as the water flow is minimal. The area is beautiful nonetheless, and you can imagine the force of water during spring run-off must be tremendous. We rented a canoe and paddled around on the Snake one afternoon. We didn’t do a lot of sightseeing in Idaho, but spent some time relaxing in hammocks at the campsite and soaking in the springs. Overall, we were unimpressed with this area of Idaho. The Snake River Canyon is beautiful, but miles of flat land filled with odorous feedlots dominates the landscape of southern Idaho. I would like to see the eastern and northern areas of the state in the future, in hopes to validate my previous notions of Idaho.

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Leslie Gulch

The second stop on our journey was at Leslie Gulch, a canyon in eastern Oregon not far from the Idaho border. Just minutes east of Bend, the landscape changes as you enter the vastness of the high desert of eastern Oregon. We drove through miles of sagebrush and distant mountains before reaching the 25 mile gravel washboard road that would lead us into the canyon of striking tuff formations. Leslie Gulch is BLM land and has a free primitive campground. We were the only ones camping during our visit. The rugged landscape is remote. Solitude is easily obtained here; unless you include the company of flies. Flies loved it here and were abundant. If you have ever seen the movie “The Proposition”, there is a scene with swarms of flies that I was reminded of. Luckily, the flies dissipated as the sun set and we enjoyed a peaceful evening alone in the wilderness. The flies returned with the morning sun and we decided to make the first of many changes to our initial “plan”. We had planned to camp here 2 nights, but decided to cut it short and let the flies find someone else to swarm. I have no regrets of taking the time to visit this remote area and would consider visiting again; though I would research the best time to minimize the potential of flies!

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Newberry Volcanic National Monument – Paulina Lake Area

 

 

It has been a while since my last post. During that time we enjoyed our first extended vacation between work assignments. We saw some amazing places and spent close to three weeks back home, enjoying the company of our family and friends. It was great to see everyone. It is our hope to maintain these cherished relationships we have. It is the hardest part of our new lifestyle; being so far away from the people we love so much. We are now back in Oregon and have settled into our new home, a 5th wheel! We are loving it so far. It is cozy and comfortable. We will be leaving the Rogue Valley next week and heading to the central coast for the next chapter of our adventure. I will begin an assignment in the town of Florence, though we plan to park the 5th wheel inland in the town of Mapleton. I expect it to take some time to get caught up with photos and posts, but will do my best to share our adventure in a timely manner.

Our first stop on the road was in central Oregon, southeast of Bend at Newberry Volcanic National Monument. You may remember this place from a previous post. The Monument has three sections, with one we have still yet to explore. We tent camped 2 nights at Paulina Lake inside the monument. We just so happened to be here during a lunar eclipse/super-moon, which we had the privilege to experience from Paulina peek (elevation7,984 ft). The view of the 4×5 mile wide Newberry Caldera is breathtaking. Within the Caldera lies two lakes; Paulina Lake and East Lake, which are separated by a central pumice cone. Big Obsidian Flow, the youngest lava flow in Oregon, lies within the caldera as well. It was cold here, with water freezing overnight. The pro to this: we had the campground almost entirely to ourselves, which allows you to enjoy the serenity of the environment.

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Lassen Volcanic National Park

As I write this, we have finished our assignments in Grants Pass. We have had friends and family visit over the past few weeks and have had a great time showing them the beautiful land and water that have surrounded us over the past 6 months. It’s wild looking back at the things we have done, the things we have seen, and the experiences we have had so far this year. And now, we are about to begin another chapter.  We have purchased a 5th wheel trailer (which is currently in storage) and will move in to it in November. But first, we will spend 3 weeks traveling through Oregon, Idaho, Utah, Colorado, and New Mexico before we return to Memphis to visit family and friends. We plan to tent camp at the Grand Canyon and Death Valley on our return to Oregon in November. We have reservations at a RV park for a month in Grants Pass; to allow us to get situated in the trailer and look for work if we do not already have assignments arranged by then. We are looking forward to the next chapter in this adventure.

Back to Lassen; Lassen is a park I have wanted to visit for years and knew I would kick myself if we didn’t make it there while living less than 4 hours away. We made it there the last weekend of August. It is a beautiful place, with high mountain peaks, beautiful lakes, geothermal areas, lava flows, cinder cones, and painted dunes. All four types of volcanoes are represented at Lassen; composite, shield, cinder cone, and plug dome. Lassen is the southernmost peak in the Cascades Volcanic Arc, which forms a section of the Pacific “Ring of Fire”.

We have visited many volcanic areas over the years since my infatuation with volcanoes began in Hawaii in 2009. There are elements of volcanic landscapes that are familiar, but each has it’s own character. Volcanic lands inspire wonder and a healthy appreciation of the awesome power of nature. I doubt I will ever tire of visiting them. There is a sense of humility that I feel while standing on a volcano; a realization of the power that lies beneath my feet, the power that shaped the landscape around me. Also, an admiration of the beauty that has emerged from destruction and an appreciation of time. So often we forget how short the human life is, compared to the Earth, which has endured changes for billions of years.

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The Columbia River Gorge

The Columbia River Gorge hosts the largest concentration of waterfalls in the U.S. with 80 on the Oregon side of the gorge alone. No doubt, this is an amazing area, but it is no secret.  “The Gorge” begins just outside the metropolitan area of Portland. So if you come here on a weekend, during the summer (which we did), prepare to share the beauty with thousands of other visitors. I hope to return here in the spring, during the middle of the week, and early in the morning; which should adequately reduce the concentration of humans in the area.

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Back to Crater Lake

I love our National Park Pass. It makes making multiple trips to Crater Lake seem perfectly sane. This was our third visit to the park. We drove around the entire lake on this trip and hiked down to see the lake at it’s surface for a different perspective. I prefer the eastern side of the park to the hustle and bustle of Rim Village.

We camped at Union Creek Campground about 20 minutes outside the park. In this area the Rogue River channels into a narrow gorge. There is also an area nearby called “Natural Bridge” where the Rogue disappears into a 250 foot long lava tube and comes out the other side. There is a nice path along the river and it is a beautiful area. Unfortunately, the lookout points were poorly placed and creating a pleasing composition of the phenomenon is next to impossible.  We made a detour on the way home to Pearsoney Falls.

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Newberry National Volcanic Monument

 

This post has been a long time coming. We visited this monument on our return home from the Painted Hills, but I ran out of room to upload photos on the blog, so couldn’t post it at the same time. My mom rocks, and transferred the blog over to a domain where I am not limited on how many photos I upload (yeah!). We have been busy, (I started a new job with  2 hours of driving each day…yikes!) and we continue to explore Oregon on weekends, so I have some catching up to do!

Back to the post; we were driving along Hwy 97 on our return home from the Painted Hills when a huge cinder cone came into view, followed by a sign for the monument. I lit up like a kid and looked at Rob with enthusiasm, asking “can we please?”. We were tired from our weekend of camping in triple digit temps, but Rob is a trooper and took the exit. How did I not know about this? The area of the monument we visited is called “lava lands” and the cinder cone you see pictured below is “lava butte”.  The monument is huge and includes a lava cave and two crater lakes. We did not have the time or energy to explore the entire monument, but I do hope to return to this fascinating place.

Newberry Volcano is the largest volcano in the Cascades volcanic arc. It has been referred to as “Oregon’s sleeping giant”.  Newberry is a shield shaped composite volcano with 1,200 square miles of lava flows. There is lava dating up to 400,000 years old and the last eruption was 1,300 years ago. Newberry is monitored by the U.S. Geological Survey and is considered a “high risk” volcano with a relatively recent eruption and a population of over 200,000 living nearby. In 1981 a drill hole recorded temperatures over 500 degrees Fahrenheit at a depth of 3,000 feet, indicating an active magma system beneath the volcano. Scientists believe that Newberry is certain to erupt again.

 

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The Painted Hills and The John Day River

The Painted Hills are one of three units in The John Day Fossil Beds National Monument. This is high desert; pure, wild, rugged, serene, and remote. The smell of sage fills the air and calms the spirit. We camped at Priest Hole on the John Day River as no camping is allowed inside the monument. To get to Priest Hole from the Painted Hills unit you must drive into the backcountry on gravel roads. As you leave the pavement behind, you enter a rugged, remote wilderness. The river is inviting; cool and calm. Finally, relief from the heat of the desert sun.

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Smith Rock State Park

We had been trying to plan a visit the High desert of central Oregon for some time, specifically Smith Rock and The Painted Hills. Smith Rock is a 4 hour drive from Grants Pass, and The Painted Hills are 1 1/2 hours past Smith Rock. We wanted a 3 day weekend to explore this area. Unfortunately, by the time we could arrange that, a heat wave had hit the Pacific Northwest. Just a week earlier this area had consistently had highs in the high 80’s to low 90’s and lows in the high 40’s; perfect for camping and hiking. During our visit, highs soared to 109 and there was little relief from the heat at night.

We camped 2 nights at Smith Rock. On the 2nd night there were strong gusts of wind that blew dust through the campground with force. We were attempting to cook dinner when this began and the wind quickly blew out the flame on the propane grill. We gave up on cooking and took cover from the dust in the car and watched and waited as it passed through. A few drops of rain blew through after the dust, but only lasted a few minutes. The storm passed through just as the sun was setting. The dust in the air contributed to an amazing sunset.

Smith Rock is a popular location for climbers with over 180 climbing routes. It also offers hiking, horseback, and mountain bike trails. The Crooked River runs through Smith Rock and provides a lush area that contrasts beautifully with the surrounding desert. I would love to return here when the temperatures are cooler, but have no regrets for bracing the heat to experience this beautiful park.

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Crater Lake Sounds Good

After an awesome tour and hike at Oregon Caves, we headed home. We didn’t want to though. In fact, we stopped at a park on the Applegate River and pondered swimming. It was late in the day and the water was ice cold, so we opted out. We decided on a whim, to go home, pack up a few things, and head towards Crater Lake. We would camp about half-way there, then get up the next morning and hike at Crater Lake; the trails should be open. We ended up camping next to a group that stayed up all night partying; literally. The sun was rising when they finally shut up! Not quite the good nights sleep we had hoped for. In addition to lack of sleep, soreness had set in from the previous days activities. My calves were burning before we step foot at Crater Lake.

What a difference a month makes. The snow was all but gone. The sky clear and blue, and the lake bluer still. It was crowded, so crowded that there were cars lined up at the gate. Our National Park Pass came in handy as it allowed us to pass through the employee lane. Rim Village was bustling with tourists all taking selfies or family shots in front of the lake. Luckily, even at Crater  Lake, you don’t have to venture far down a trail before the crowds disappear and you are surrounded by peace and beauty.

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